I had a realization this morning! It was like an atom bomb went off in my head in regards to patterning a Men's 18th century frock coat. I've been looking at diagrams of patterns inline for weeks now, trying to figure out the easiest (and admittedly laziest) way of drafting a men's jacket. I do have the background in pattern drafting and can do it from measurements and the formulas, but I have been stalling, hoping I could find something easier.
This morning I realized how easy it actually is. This Diagram gives me everything I need to know to draft up a man's frock coat. Its been staring me in the face for weeks now! Sometimes I can be so dense!
If you understand the very first lessons in pattern drafting then you can pattern this in no time. All the measurements needed are on the diagram.
Basically you start with a vertical line which is the length of your garment. Here the front of the coat is 116 cm long. The measurements start at 0, and draw a perpendicular line out from there. This is the top of the shoulder. The next line down is 6 cm from the top, square out from there, this is the center front neck point. You continue to square off your lines from the vertical line, measuring down using the numbers provided in centimeters. Use your french curve to draw your shaping.
At this point it is all just theory. I could be completely way of base. BUT....This is exactly the same way you start the draft on modern day tops pattern. I think the only thing I need to work out is the measurements and translate them in to a size. I am gonna do a copy of this pattern and see if I have to do any changes in order for it to fit The MAN.
Sorry to say, this is a justaucorp coat, a precursor to the frock. You're about 50-100 years off. :) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Justacorps
ReplyDeleteBrilliant!
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