A Polonaise Jacket

Here's a Polonaise Jacket I made for my dear Aunt Harding.  Its made from a ribbed cotton fabric and lined in linen.  Pattern is draped.  All seams that can be machine sewn are and what shows is hand stitching.  There are a fwe things still left to do to it, like find some tassles and trim for the back seams, but overall it's finished. 


Robe a la Polonaise
 It is a fitted back gown that is looped up to create poofs in the back. It started to become popular around the 1770's and later....


Norah Waugh states in Cut of Women's Clothes on pg 73 that the robe à l'anglaise was often equipped with tapes to draw up the skirt, and on the topic of the polonaise says:
Though this term is often applied to any eighteenth-century dress with back drapery, it belongs, strictly speaking, to an over dress that appeared c. 1775. This was cut like the man's coat of the same period, with centre back and two far-back side seams all terminating in inverted pleats, the front being in one piece with an underarm dart. It was caught to the top of the bodice centre front ...
 There is a distinct difference that defines the style of Polonaise as opposed to the verb: to polonaise.
  

V. Polonaise:
 The open skirt of a Robe a l'Anglaise could be poofed up by tucking the front corners through the pocket slits (also known as "retroussé dans les poches"), or, later, by means of tapes and loops sewn into the skirt.” It was a trickle up of fashion from the lower class shepherdess and milk maids who would ruck up their skirts to avoid getting them dirty.

 
N. Polonaise:
Its a popular style in the 1770s and 80s defined by the separate outer front which drapes away from the body.  The back is also cut similar to a mans jacket with inverted pleats. It can be a short jacket with no polonaising down to a longer gown, with polonaising.
Contrasting and self trimming was evident, as well as silk gauze pleated along the edge of the gown and a large gathered flounce on the petticoat.  Stripes also became popular with this style.


Now that we are done with the boring explanations, I choose to do the Polonaise Jacket from Norah Waugh's The Cut of Women's Clothes, Diagram XXI

I have since finished it and added the box pleated trimming....but here are some pics of before the trimming. I've also added a piece of boning down the center front to keep the line straight so it doesn't buckle.

Cheers,

Kate

Mrs Letty and Her Lovely Brunswick

Mrs. Letty came to me one day.

She had a problem...

Mornings were oh so cold and damp in camp and she wanted something that would keep her warm while she prepared morning meals for the soldiers.  Mrs Letty had very little, as she became a washer woman when her soldier husband died in a skirmish, and a few months before she had been cheated out of wages by another washer woman who had invaded camp and was undercutting her prices and offering more than just washing services!

I was astonished, yet a little saddened to hear her plight.  Mrs Letty had been saving her small pittance for years to gain enough money to afford construction of a new Brunswick and this new interloper threatened her way of life....

I know I shouldn't feel sorry for the lowly workers, but I did, and in trade I decided to construct her a new jacket.  She agreed to wash my linens in exchange.  She brought me the fabric that had been passed down to her.  It was a serviceable brown wool and light weight slubby silk in red.  What a great color to support the crown with.

 Miss Letty was quite please with how well it turned out an I don't have to wash my linens for the next year.  I think it was a great act of charity....

Your Truly,

Mrs. Elizabeth Harding (aka Kate)

The Blue En Fourreau

I've been avoiding my blog....There I said it!

I have been super busy creating, and have ton of things that I have made  over the past 8 months that I would love to share with you, and I will.  But I'll be honest, It's probably just gonna be pics and not much writing.  But Who doesn't love Pictures of pretty things!

The Blue Linen En Fourreau......

This was a commission I made for Mrs. B.  It was a lovely linen that she wished to be made into a gown that would be servicable for a lengthy period of time.  It was constructed from 3 meters of fabric and all visible seams were hand sewn, while interior seams were machined.   The pattern is draped, with the sleeves being a combination of modern pattern drafting and draping.

Piecing to get a full sleeve.

ALAS...even though this gown was made almost a year ago I still have no pictures of Mrs. S in the gown....That woman is elusive!

Enjoy!

Cheers,

Kate

The Saque....Or the gown I almost killed myself to make in a week!

So here are more photo's of the Robe a la Francais that I made for a wonderful lady in the Regiment. Mrs. L provided the fabric, a silk dupioni, and requested that it could be done by the celebration for Robbie Burns. 

I warn you...Its going to be SUPER heavy with pictures!  But I think you'll enjoy that. The only thing missing is the trimming.  She also wanted cuffs and decoration which were to be done later.  As it is LATER now, (LOL), I am almost finished on the trimmings and will post pictures soon. 

Enjoy!!

The stays were hers and the pockets I made for this gown.

hi....ANd stuff!

So, I'll admit, I have been Seriously LACKING in blog posts....Its been what?  MONTHS?  YUp....

Sorry!

I will try to update what has been happening in my sewing life these past few months, but here is a teaser of what I am trying to make....In a week.

Yes I said a Week!

This will be my first Sacque and unfortunately I don't get to be the recipient....:(

WHat you can't see is the back lining piece, which is made out of two layers of linen.  It has an opening 2/3 of the way up the back and has lacing holes to allow for adjustment  if needed.  I also boned the center back as well as the middle of the side back piece in order to support the "Watteau" pleats so they didn't collapse or pull at the neckline.  The gown is made from a Silk dupioni, which I know isn't period correct, but it is what the client bought to use.  It is a finer dupioni, so it does have slubs, but not that many. 

I also have a Facebook page for my blog if you want to start following it...I actually post more photo's there as its easier to upload when I take pics from my phone....

The Naked Catwalk

Ta for now.

Drool Worthy Shoes....

So I know this girl who sells shoes....The pretty kind....With baubles....I betcha you've heard of these Fabulous Feet Candy, and if you haven't...WHAT ROCK HAVE YOU BEEN UNDER?!?!?!?!!?

LOL,

Seriously You should visit Lauren at American Duchess, and get your mitts on these gorgeous kicks before the pre-sale ends in 6 days....  Thats's right!  You only have 6 more days to order the Devonshires and the regular width Georgianas.

DON"T WAIT!!!! GO NOW!!!!

These babies are ALL leather masterpieces, with a well balanced, custom carved heel.  Your tootsies will thank you for it!

"The Devonshires are a leather 18th century shoe based on museum examples from the 1760s through 1780s.  They're made of top-grade dyable leather, with a beautiful, smooth Italian leather sole for dancing, and are hard-wearing, water- and mud-proof, for even the toughest of outdoor re-enactments."  (http://www.americanduchess.blogspot.com/)

I know my pair already ordered.....

Green With Envy....

Well maybe not envy, but I was definitely seeing green as I was making my current gown.  I finished it weeks ago and have since worn it to two events....but I just realized I haven't shown you.  

I ordered 5 yards of this wonderful 5.3 oz green linen from http://www.fabric-store.com/, and it was super awesome to work with....It softened up and washed beautifully in the washing machine.  I draped the pattern on Mrs. Squishypants, and decided to go with the "a l'anglais" style back, as it was new and I had never done it before.  I am getting better at sleeves too, The muslin worked awesome with three little pleats at the sleeve head, but as I was fitting the actual sleeves I had to combine the three into two and fiddle with them a bit....Still at least it wasn't hours of remakes and fiddling!

I used hooks and thread eyes for the front closure and they work but I am not too happy with the result....if I'm not laced tight enough, they pull and you can see them.  To me it ruins the clean lines of the front of the dress, but since I haven't mastered the "pinning of oneself" into a gown yet, it will have to do. 

Red Rover, Red Rover, Bring Your Stays over....

So I am ALMOST done the stays for Mrs. S.  They are made from 3 layers, 2 cotton canvas and 1 is a rough textured red silk.  The binding is a faux suede that I had  purchased at a fabric store in Vancouver BC many years ago.  I bought it because it was literally identical to real suede but much easier to sew through.  The channels are machine sewn as I don't have the patience or the ambition to do it by hand.  I'm not that hard core!  LOL.  I used German  Plastic Whalebone, cutting and sanding each end so that it had less of a chance to poke through the fabric.  I also used metal grommets which I'll cover in thread to make them look period.  I just have to finish up the binding and put in a lining. 

Now that is one gorgeous figure! 



The bowed shaped front of the 1780's



Busy Beaver....

So I've been insanely busy the past few months, both with sewing and with everyday life.  The hubby lost his job, so I was a mad scramble to find a new one and to put the hous eon the market so we weren't paying for two mortgages.  Yesterday he signed the last of the paper work and the house is officially sold! 

YIPPEEE!!!!!

He is currently on his way across Canada with the last of our possesions from the old house.  Its been almost 6 weeks since I've seen him last and boy do I need a break.  Being a single mom is hard!  I'm so thank full that I don't have to work and look after the kiddos....Big Kudos to those that do! 

I have been working on a few different things over the past 6 weeks: modern bridesmaids dresses for the fabulous Miss A, breeches for the boys, shirts for the boys, a brunswick for Miss Mary, Stays and a muslin for Mrs. S, and a camp dress for myself as all I have is the pink polonaise, which is completely unsuited to camp life! 

I finished it with time to spare....2 weeks till the Liverpool event.  2 Weeks!!!!  I never get my own things finished with that much time to spare.....LOL!

Here are pics of the lovely camp dress....

I had to polonaise this one as I cut it very short.  I forgot to cut out the sleeves so I had to take enough off the hem to do so....Stupid rookie mistake!  lol.  Its also closed with hook and eyes and there is a little rippling at the bottom where the point is, that is really irritating to me.  Its made out of Linen and lined in linen.....Enjoy!

Adventures in Breeches....The Finale.

The Breeches are done!

The Man looks great in them too!  I have a few alterations to make to the pattern.  The opening on the sides of the fall front gape a bit, so I need to shorten that. and take out about a cm in the center front so it doesn't bag and it lays flat.

I also have to work out the sequence of construction better.  There were a few issues while sewing that I want to address for the next pair.  Its pretty good for a finished muslin.  I did do two other muslins first and then decided I need to to have a finished one.  These are made out of linen and are completely machine stitched.  I will hand stitch the next pair on all the elements that require top stitching.

Has the right amount of baggy bum....gives him the illusion of perkyness...LOL!

A little baggy in the  CF.  Gonna take out about 1.5 cm and it should lay flat.

I think I need to shorten the width of the band so it hits the back of the knee and you can see the curve of the calf.

The placket opening is a bit too long.  Although you can't see it in this picture.

The gusset needs to be a bit bigger and the waistband needs to be longer.  I want him to be able to gain weight and still be able to wear these.  He tends to get heavier in the winter than in the summer, so I need the extra wiggle room.

They are missing buttons, which I don't have.  I looked through my HUGE button jar and the only thing I have alot of are plastic ones.  I wasn't really feeling up to cutting out a ton of circles and doing fabric covered buttons. 

I also tried to keep the bum as fitted as I could and still allow unrestricted movement.  I think it's baggy enough to give the look of 18th century breeches without the excess saggy diaper look.

I think once I have the pattern perfect then I will try to make a pair out of Chamois leather.  Buckskin breeches would look yummy on him!